How to pick the perfect pint-size Irish pub in Dublin and beyond

In James Joyce’s “Ulysses,” Leopold Bloom remarks that it would be a good puzzle to cross Dublin without passing a pub. Colm Quilligan, founder of the Dublin Literary Pub Crawl, doesn’t recommend even trying it.  “When Americans come to town, all roads lead to Temple Bar,” said Quilligan, referring to the pub-rich area on the south...